Tracing Old Smuggling Routes Along the Coast

The Coast That Kept Secrets

Britain's coastline has always been a place of arrival and escape. Long before holidaymakers came for ice cream and deckchairs, the same coves and creeks were busy with contraband. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, high import duties on tea, brandy, gin and tobacco made smuggling a lucrative trade — and a dangerous one. Wool was smuggled out; spirits and lace came in. The result is a landscape stitched with hidden paths, lookout points and inns that asked few questions.

Today, walking or boating these old routes is one of the best ways to understand coastal Britain. You need a decent map, sturdy boots, and curiosity.

Reading the Landscape: Coves, Chines and Landing Places

Smugglers chose landing spots with care: shelter from south-westerlies, a steep beach for running a boat ashore, and a quick escape inland. That is why old routes begin at Talland Bay, the Dorset chines, the chalk gaps near Dover, or the tidal creeks of Essex and Suffolk.

Look for clues: a sunken lane leading from a beach, stone steps cut into a cliff, a tunnel that goes nowhere. On a large-scale map, watch for names like Smugglers' Path, Brandy Hole or Custom House. These are surviving labels from a working frontier.

Walking the Old Routes: Four Stretches Worth Your Boots

You can trace smuggling history on foot almost anywhere. These four stretches offer fine scenery and story.

• Rye Harbour to Winchelsea, East Sussex. Six miles of flat marshland. The old owlers — wool smugglers — moved fleeces to waiting boats. Look for Martello towers and medieval Winchelsea, a port that silted up.
• Polperro to Looe, Cornwall. A rugged seven-mile section of the South West Coast Path. Polperro was a notorious smuggling village; its narrow streets confused revenue officers. Check tide times before setting out.
• Robin Hood's Bay to Whitby, North Yorkshire. A testing 13-mile cliff walk with steep descents. This coast was a highway for contraband. Old inns in Robin Hood's Bay have cellars that once held kegs of brandy. Start early.
• Blakeney to Cley-next-the-Sea, Norfolk. A gentle four-mile walk across salt marsh and shingle. Blakeney was a busy smuggling port; local fishermen knew every channel. Wellies are wise in winter.

Inns, Hidey-Holes and the Coastguard's Beat

Smuggling relied on silence, and the local inn was often the heart of it. A landlord might be a receiver, a lookout, or both. Many coastal inns still have secret cellars, sliding panels, or windows angled to watch the sea.

The authorities fought back with the Preventive Water Guard, later the Coastguard, and riding officers. Their patrols were relentless, especially on moonless nights. Coastguard cottages still stand on clifftops; imagine the lamp moving along the path — and the smuggler freezing in the gorse.

Many inns now serve good food and local ale. Ask staff about the building's history. Look for old photographs, ships' timbers and names like 'The Smugglers' Rest'. But not every tale is true; a local museum will separate fact from folklore.

By Boat: Following the Sea Lanes

If you sail, motor or paddle, you can trace the old routes from the water. Smugglers used fast luggers and cutters, often rowing the last mile to avoid detection. Today, the same anchorages offer shelter — but modern rules apply.

Plan with up-to-date charts and tide tables. The tidal streams around Portland Bill, Start Point and the Dover Strait are powerful. In many harbours, call the harbour master on VHF before entering. Never anchor in a conservation area or over a protected wreck. For a taste without risk, join a local boat trip from a harbour town.

Practical Notes for the Modern Route-Tracer

Spring and autumn are best: fewer crowds, softer light. Check weather and tide times. Coastal paths can be muddy or eroded; sturdy boots are essential. Carry water, a paper map, and a charged phone — signal is patchy.

Respect private land and follow the Countryside Code. Many old paths cross farmland or nature reserves. If a path is closed, take the waymarked alternative. Do not explore crumbling tunnels or cliff caves without local advice.

Finally, slow down. The joy is not in ticking off locations but in noticing small things: a ruined lime kiln, a line of standing stones, the smell of woodsmoke from an inn chimney. The coast keeps its secrets but rewards the curious. Pack a map, bring a friend, and let the old paths lead you to a quieter seaside.